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Roupa para Vestir e Roupa para Mostrar: A representação do traje na iluminura de António de Holanda

Authors: Baptista, Filipa Alexandra Nogueira;

Roupa para Vestir e Roupa para Mostrar: A representação do traje na iluminura de António de Holanda

Abstract

The court is, in the sixteenth century, the epicenter of cultural, artistic and political influence, from which the fashion that the rest of the kingdom sought to emulate was spread. An important instrument for politics, that must be studied as a part of the expression of power, is clothing. Clothing items are symbolic and aim to convey a concept of power, letting the visual image speak to the detriment of words. The confluence of cultures and commercial exchanges allowed, throughout modernity, greater ease in communicating with others and promoted a growth in economic stability, which led to changes in clothing styles. This is the moment where fashion is created, which affects not only the clothing scene, but also the artistic and social ones. The pieces of clothing found in the illumination of the Genealogy of Infant D. Fernando by António de Holanda is a reflection of this expression of power that the court intends to transmit, since, when analyzing them, we are confronted with a panoply of colors, luxury fabrics and rich accessories, made of precious materials, which dominate the composition and help to perpetuate an ideal of wealth and social elevation associated with the king and his family. Through the characterization of clothing in Holanda's work, we are able to create a corpus with different pieces of clothing that mirrors those used at the beginning of modernity in the Portuguese kingdom, since the artist will represent what he knows and what he saw appearing in the court, at the time.

A corte era, no século XVI, o epicentro da influência cultural, artística e política, a partir do qual se espalhavam as modas que o resto do reino procura mimetizar. Um importante instrumento para a política e que deve ser estudado como elemento de expressão do poder é o vestuário, as peças de roupa são acessórias de simbologias que pretendem transmitir uma conceção de poder, deixando que a imagem visual fale em detrimento das palavras. A confluência de culturas e as trocas comerciais permitiram que, ao longo da modernidade, começa-se a existir uma maior facilidade em comunicar com o outro e uma maior estabilidade económica que levam à alteração das formas de vestuário. É aqui que se dá a criação da moda, que afeta não só o panorama do vestuário, mas também o artístico e social. As peças de roupa encontradas na iluminura da Genealogia do Infante D. Fernando de António de Holanda vão ser um reflexo desta expressão de poder que a corte pretende transmitir, já que, ao analisarmos as mesmas, somos confrontados com uma panóplia de cores, tecidos de luxo e acessórios ricos, feitos de materiais preciosos, que dominam a composição e que ajudam a perpetuar um ideal de riqueza e de elevação social associado ao rei e à sua família. Através da caracterização do vestuário na obra de Holanda, conseguimos criar um corpus com as diversas peças de roupa que espelha aquele utilizado no início da modernidade no reino português, já que o artista vai representar aquilo que conhece e que vê surgir na corte à época.

Country
Portugal
Related Organizations
Keywords

The expression of power, History and culture of fashion, Século XVI, Corte portuguesa, XVI century, Representação do poder, Portuguese court, História e cultura da moda, Domínio/Área Científica::Humanidades::História e Arqueologia

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selected citations
These citations are derived from selected sources.
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
0
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