
In order to clarify the characteristics of the velocity field in the surf zone, three sets of detailed and precise two dimensional laboratory experiments were performed. Spatial distributions and time histories of velocity were measured by using a hot film velocimeter with a split type probe or a two components laser doppler velocimeter for regular wave conditions. Typical plunging breakers were formed during the experiments. Based on the experimental results, a model was investigated in order to estimate the two dimensional distribution of the on-offshore steady current below the trough level.
| selected citations These citations are derived from selected sources. This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically). | 18 | |
| popularity This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network. | Top 10% | |
| influence This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically). | Top 10% | |
| impulse This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network. | Average |
