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Coastal Engineering Proceedings
Article . 1980 . Peer-reviewed
Data sources: Crossref
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https://doi.org/10.1061/978087...
Article . 1980 . Peer-reviewed
Data sources: Crossref
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WAVE ATTENUATION AND WAVE SET-UP ON A COASTAL REEF

Authors: Franciscus Gerritsen;

WAVE ATTENUATION AND WAVE SET-UP ON A COASTAL REEF

Abstract

In attempting to specify criteria for the design of structures on coastal reefs, it was found that no adequate method existed to derive those criteria from the deep water wave conditions. In order to fill the gap, a program of measurements and analysis was initiated at the University of Hawaii. The program consisted of prototype and laboratory measurements. Great emphasis was placed on reliable field data, which were collected on Ala Moana Reef, in Honolulu. Laboratory investigations on the behavior of waves on shallow reefs are subject to scale effects; verification from field observations is required to obtain reliable results. As a result of this study, a mathematical model was developed for the calculation of wave attenuation and wave set-up on a shallow reef, using the incident waves in the ocean as boundary conditions. This paper discusses the general behavior of waves approaching a shallow reef and presents some essential characteristics of the mathematical model. The study is limited to waves approaching the shoreline at right angles. The results of this study can be extended to breakwaters with wide, submerged berms.

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    influence
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selected citations
These citations are derived from selected sources.
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
51
Top 10%
Top 10%
Average
gold