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Coastal Engineering Proceedings
Article . 1978 . Peer-reviewed
Data sources: Crossref
image/svg+xml art designer at PLoS, modified by Wikipedia users Nina, Beao, JakobVoss, and AnonMoos Open Access logo, converted into svg, designed by PLoS. This version with transparent background. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Open_Access_logo_PLoS_white.svg art designer at PLoS, modified by Wikipedia users Nina, Beao, JakobVoss, and AnonMoos http://www.plos.org/
https://doi.org/10.1061/978087...
Article . 1978 . Peer-reviewed
Data sources: Crossref
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SURF ZONE RESONANCE AND COUPLED MORPHOLOGY

Authors: John Chappell; Lynn Donelson Wright;

SURF ZONE RESONANCE AND COUPLED MORPHOLOGY

Abstract

The edge wave hypothesis for periodic inshore morphology and circulation is tested for five beaches and is supported by resulting wave-current spectral and cross-spectral data. Beach types range from a reflective, narrow surf zone, case through various dissipative medium to high energy beaches including some with inshore bar-trough morphology and one broad surf zone troughless one. In all cases beachface reflectivity is moderately high (E < 2.5) and inshore resonance occurs, indicated by strong spectral peaks at lower than incident frequency with wave-current co-peaks being 90°out of phase. Several different edgewave frequency and mode combinations are indicated. The reflective beach shows an n = o subharmonic edgewave (i.e. at half incident wave frequency) which Guza and Davis (1974) predict as the most likely case, viz. the (o,o) triad. The troughless dissipative case shows a (1,0) edgewave triad; the same occurs in some bar-trough dissipative cases but in other cases is supplanted by the (o,o) sub-harmonic wave and/or by a lower subharmonic wave at h, incident frequency. The likelihood of a given edge .waveset appears to be regulated by surf friction, and a change of edge wave set appears likely to explain observed changes of inshore circulation.

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selected citations
These citations are derived from selected sources.
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
4
Average
Top 10%
Average
gold