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Surf and Swash Zone Hydrodynamics

Authors: Ib A. Svendsen; D. H. Peregrine;

Surf and Swash Zone Hydrodynamics

Abstract

Abstract : The long-term goal is to improve understanding of the hydrodynamics of the near-shore motions on beaches, with particular reference to the zone where the incident waves break, form surf, and run-up on the beach to give a fluctuating shoreline. This includes the waves and currents that the breaking waves, surf and run-up generate together with necessary details of the motions beneath the waves. Particular attention is directed to improving theoretical models of these motions. The main topics for study are: (a) the turbulence generated by breaking waves and bores. A rational, non-empirical, approach to modelling unsteady spilling breakers and bores is a major target. (b) the modelling of surf in the presence of co-existing long waves. (c) improved, and perhaps simplified, modelling of the swash zone. (d) understanding the currents, eddies and long waves generated by the incident waves, especially for irregular non-uniform waves over non-uniform bed topography.

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selected citations
These citations are derived from selected sources.
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
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Average
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