Long–wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach

descriptionPublicationkeyboard_double_arrow_right Article 08 Sep 2002 Australia English Publisher:The Royal SocietyJournal:Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, volume 458, pages 2,177-2,201 (issn: 1364-5021, eissn: 1471-2946,

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Authors: Baldock, T. E.; Huntley, D. A.;

doi: 10.1098/rspa.2002.0962

Long–wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach

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Abstract

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Australia

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Keywords

Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography, 291205 Ocean Engineering, wave amplitudes, 535, breaking waves, 551, Experimental work for problems pertaining to fluid mechanics, 291801 Fluidization and Fluid Mechanics, C1, random waves, gravity water waves, Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction, long waves, long-wave frequencies, 290802 Water and Sanitary Engineering, 260403 Physical Oceanography, surf beat, 240502 Fluid Physics, beaches, shoreline oscillation amplitudes

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