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image/svg+xml Jakob Voss, based on art designer at PLoS, modified by Wikipedia users Nina and Beao Closed Access logo, derived from PLoS Open Access logo. This version with transparent background. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Closed_Access_logo_transparent.svg Jakob Voss, based on art designer at PLoS, modified by Wikipedia users Nina and Beao zbMATH Openarrow_drop_down
image/svg+xml Jakob Voss, based on art designer at PLoS, modified by Wikipedia users Nina and Beao Closed Access logo, derived from PLoS Open Access logo. This version with transparent background. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Closed_Access_logo_transparent.svg Jakob Voss, based on art designer at PLoS, modified by Wikipedia users Nina and Beao
zbMATH Open
Article . 1996
Data sources: zbMATH Open
Physics of Fluids
Article . 1996 . Peer-reviewed
Data sources: Crossref
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The generation of edge waves by a wave-maker

Authors: Liu, Philip L.-F.; Yeh, Harry H.;

The generation of edge waves by a wave-maker

Abstract

A theory is developed to describe the generation of edge waves on a uniform beach by a wave-maker. The theory is based on the linear shallow-water equations. The wave-maker is a vertical plate spanning between the shoreline and the paddle axis offshore, and oscillates periodically in the alongshore direction. It is found theoretically that only propagating modes exist; the evanescent modes are always accompanied by incoming waves from offshore and are not permissible in this case. For each propagation mode the cross-shore variation is described by the Laguerre polynomial with an exponentially decaying amplitude. Laboratory experiments are performed and experimental data are compared with theoretical solutions. Since the viscous damping is ignored in the theory, the wave amplitudes for the experimental data are usually lower than the theoretical predictions. However, the cross-shore variations of the wave form are predicted well by the theory. Furthermore, from both theoretical and experimental data, it is shown that wave fields are dominated by the Stokes edge-wave mode in the low frequency range, f<0.5 Hz.

Related Organizations
Keywords

Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography, Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction

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    popularity
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    influence
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selected citations
These citations are derived from selected sources.
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
11
Average
Top 10%
Average
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