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image/svg+xml Jakob Voss, based on art designer at PLoS, modified by Wikipedia users Nina and Beao Closed Access logo, derived from PLoS Open Access logo. This version with transparent background. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Closed_Access_logo_transparent.svg Jakob Voss, based on art designer at PLoS, modified by Wikipedia users Nina and Beao Acta Mechanica Sinic...arrow_drop_down
image/svg+xml Jakob Voss, based on art designer at PLoS, modified by Wikipedia users Nina and Beao Closed Access logo, derived from PLoS Open Access logo. This version with transparent background. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Closed_Access_logo_transparent.svg Jakob Voss, based on art designer at PLoS, modified by Wikipedia users Nina and Beao
Acta Mechanica Sinica
Article . 1988 . Peer-reviewed
License: Springer TDM
Data sources: Crossref
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-...
Part of book or chapter of book . 1989 . Peer-reviewed
Data sources: Crossref
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A numerical study of the motion of a wave running up a beach

Authors: Guangyuan Zou; Yaosong Chen;

A numerical study of the motion of a wave running up a beach

Abstract

The running up of water onto beaches is of great significance in coastal engineering. Theoretical and experimental studies in this field can be found in [1]–[7]. Recently, some numerical methods associated with this problem have appeared [4]–[7]. When the wave climbs up the inclined sea shore, there are moving boundaries which are unknown in advance. Under the potential flow assumption, Kim [5] calculated the climbing of a soliton on an inclined beach using BEM and compared his results with experiments. The results are good only if the wave height is relatively low with a slope angle of less than 15°. When height/depth = 0.2, a disagreement is evident. In this paper, a water film is imagined to cover the whole beach and a definite boundary is settled at this film. This water film is considered part of the water body. So, the moving boundary problem is changed into a fixed boundary problem and the original boundary line becomes a break line of the water surface. However, the calculation with such a break line would be unstable with ordinary finite difference methods. So, a specially designed filter is used to smooth the computation. The calculated results are consistent with experiments and some interesting phenomena have been discovered.

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selected citations
These citations are derived from selected sources.
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
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popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
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