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Arte como resistência: uma investigação do anti-dispositivo na moda

Authors: Porfírio, Juliana Rodrigues;

Arte como resistência: uma investigação do anti-dispositivo na moda

Abstract

Este estudo reúne uma investigação que se detém na noção de dispositivo atrelada ao sistema de moda e o seu desdobramento em uma produção artística orientada pela possibilidade de intervenção nesse sistema, que se configura aqui como um antidispositivo. A investigação parte do pressuposto de que o sistema de moda é composto por uma trama invisível de códigos, dispositivos, que acabam por delimitar os contornos do corpo físico e emocional. Seria possível intervir no mecanismo que se estabelece entre o corpo e a moda? A questão fundamental dessa pesquisa é suportada pela literatura em filosofia, sociologia e artes e se desdobra sob a luz dos conceitos de dispositivo desenvolvidos por Michel Foucault, Gilles Deleuze e Giorgio Agamben. No intuito de elucidar aspectos particulares da moda, revisamos a pesquisa de Gilles Lipovetsky e Nízia Villaça. Em seguida, convocamos autores como Jonathan Crary, Emanuele Coccia e Mario Perniola para esclarecer questões sobre a arte, o sensível e o espectador no contexto contemporâneo, e elencamos obras artísticas a fim de demonstrar a operacionalização desses conceitos. A noção de um anti-dispositivo é investigada a partir da metáfora do corpo sem órgãos, de Gilles Deleuze, Félix Guattari e da obra Corpo utópico dos autores Juliana Porfírio e Neville D’Almeida. Nessa perspectiva, o anti-dispositivo proposto almeja acionar mecanismos, por meio da arte, que permitam interrupções momentâneas nas conexões que se estabelecem entre corpo, moda e sociedade. A obra Corpo utópico é um convite à dança, à integração com o espaço, com o próximo, consigo mesmo – de maneira a apresentar-se como uma possibilidade de liberdade, desdobramento, para o corpo capturado na trama invisível dos dispositivos de moda. This study brings together an investigation that focuses on the notion of a dispositif linked to the fashion system and its unfolding in an artistic production oriented by the possibility of intervention in this system, which is configured here as an anti-dispositif. The investigation starts from the assumption that the fashion system is composed of an invisible web of codes, dispositifs, that end up delimiting the contours of the physical and emotional body. Would it be possible to intervene into the permanent mechanism which is established between the body and fashion? This is the fundamental question of this research which unfolds into the concepts of dispositif developed by Michel Foucault, Gilles Deleuze and Giorgio Agamben for the investigation of the anti-dispositif in fashion. With the purpose of enlightening specific aspects of fashion, we review the works of Gilles Lipovetsky and Nízia Villaça. In addition to that, we call upon authors such as Jonathan Crary, Emanuele Coccia and Mario Perniola to elucidate issues about the arts and the sensitive, and the spectator in the contemporary aspect, and we designate works of art in order to demonstrate the operation of these concepts. The notion of an antidispositif is investigated from the metaphor of the body without organs, by Gilles Deleuze and Félix Guattari, and the work Corpo utópico by the authors Juliana Porfírio e Neville D’Almeida. In this perspective, the proposed anti-dispositif aims to trigger mechanisms, through art, that allow momentary interruptions in the connections that are established between body, fashion and society. The Corpo utópico is an invitation to dance, to integration with space, with the neighbor, with oneself - so as to present itself as a possibility of freedom, unfolding, for the body captured in the invisible web of fashion dispositifs.

Keywords

anti-dispositivo, anti-dispositif, dispositivo, arte contemporânea, fashion, dispositif, moda, contemporary art

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citations
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popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
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influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
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impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
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