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ZENODO
Dataset . 2026
License: CC BY
Data sources: Datacite
ZENODO
Dataset . 2026
License: CC BY
Data sources: Datacite
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Geometry of breaking waves at natural sea

Authors: Veras Guimarães, Pedro; Eadi Stringari, Caio; Leckler, Fabien; Ardhuin, Fabrice;

Geometry of breaking waves at natural sea

Abstract

Breaking wave geometry has historically been investigated through laboratory studies, with very limited open ocean observations. Understanding wave geometry is key for modeling air-sea gas exchange, energy dissipation, and satellite measurements. We measured the geometry—including area, length, height, duration, and speed—of over 16000 breaking waves in the Black Sea. Our analysis reveals that real-world breaking waves do not conform to a self-similar geometry, nor are there predictable relationships between a wave's breaking speed and its geometric properties. The results indicate that wave breaking geometry is complex and sea-state dependent. 

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selected citations
These citations are derived from selected sources.
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
0
Average
Average
Average