One of the glories of Italy is its capacity to surprise. In out-of-the-way places extraordinary things are suddenly encountered; and this is hardly less true of science than of architecture or music or painting. Italian medicine can boast excellence in many quiet spots. Yet Italy's record in medical science and practice is perceived to be below par, and one reason may be a lack of central coordination--forgivable in a country that had fifty governments in half a century. The latest administration offers a rare chance of political stability and the prospect of reforms. In this profile of Italian medicine The Lancet's guide was Dr Giuseppe Remuzzi, whose central coordination was exemplary.