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Sport-specific power assessment for rock climbing.

Authors: N, Draper; T, Dickson; G, Blackwell; S, Priestley; S, Fryer; H, Marshall; J, Shearman; +3 Authors

Sport-specific power assessment for rock climbing.

Abstract

The popularity of rock climbing has resulted in a growing research base for the sport. However, at present there is a lack of sport-specific measures of performance in the field. The aim of this study was to examine the use of the powerslap test as a sport specific power measure.The participants in this study were categorised into four different ability groups (novice, intermediate, advanced and elite) based on self reported lead grade. Two separate experiments were conducted to determine validity and reliability. The powerslap test was conducted on a revolution board with two variations - wide and narrow grip, for both sides of the body. The test started with the climber hanging at full extension from two holds from which a pull up movement was made releasing one hand to slap a scaled score board above.There was a significant relationship between powerslap scores and climbing ability (Left Wide: r=0.7, P<0.0005; right wide: r=0.69, P<0.0005; left narrow: r=0.73, P<0.0005; right narrow: r =0.72, P<0.0005). Further to this, scores on the powerslap narrow test were significantly differentiated by climber ability (LEFT: F(3,37)=15.74, P<0.0005; right: F(3,37)=12.16, P<0.0005). Limits of agreement and intra-class correlation indicated that the powerslap test is a reliable performance measure.According to the present findings the narrow grip variation of the powerslap test is a useful sport-specific power test that is related to climbing performance.

Related Organizations
Keywords

Adult, Male, Analysis of Variance, Anaerobic Threshold, Physical Endurance, Humans, Female, Muscle Strength, Athletic Performance, Statistics, Nonparametric, Mountaineering

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Powered by OpenAIRE graph
Found an issue? Give us feedback
selected citations
These citations are derived from selected sources.
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
15
Top 10%
Top 10%
Top 10%
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