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Moda e Teoria Queer

Por uma Moda Emancipada e Emancipatória
Authors: Gonçalves, Fernanda Tiosso Sampaio;

Moda e Teoria Queer

Abstract

O presente estudo tem como objetivo compreender de que forma as proposições da Teoria Queer são capazes de fornecer um aporte teórico disruptivo que pode ser interconectado com o fenômeno da Moda para a sua emancipação das formas heteronormativas de produção, e assim, ser ressignificada como uma prática cultural e uma área do conhecimento autônoma e legítima. A problemática da investigação parte da argumentação de que a Moda se vinculou ao conjunto simbólico do feminino como efeito dos discursos da modernidade, resultando na sua marginalização e, consequentemente, numa restrição a nível espacial. Como alavanca-chave para esta argumentação, o estudo apresenta um paralelo entre o surgimento da Moda e a posterior formação da sociedade disciplinar, com o objetivo de exemplificar as consequentes marginalizações decorrentes deste processo. Como caso de estudo, através do método hermenêutico de investigação, surge a análise crítica da narrativa do desfile “Yasuke”, da marca Laboratório Fantasma que decorreu na 42ª Edição do São Paulo Fashion Week. O estudo revela, portanto, que a Moda é um fenômeno cultural potente para mostrar a realidade das múltiplas experiências corpóreas de gênero, de sexo, de etnia e de classe social, tendo um poder transformador dos corpos para transgredir o discurso hegemônico no espaço público, isto porque a Moda é uma prática criativa radical, onde a heteronormatividade e as identificações binárias são transgredidas de várias formas. Assim, a Moda, não apenas rompe com os discursos normalizadores sobre gênero e sexo, como também fornece amplas evidências sobre como estes discursos são ficções, portanto, a mesma revela uma revolta e uma subversão inerentemente queer.

The present study aims to explain how the propositions of Queer theory can provide a theoretical disruptive contribution which can be interconnected with the phenomenon of fashion for its empowerment of heteronormative forms of production, and so meaning, once more, as a cultural practice and an area of autonomous and legitimate field of knowledge. The problems of the investigation part of the argument that fashion if linked to the symbolic set of the feminine as effect of the speeches of modernity, resulting in its marginalization and, consequently, in a spatial level restriction. As a key lever for this argument, the study presents a parallel between the rise of fashion and the subsequent formation of the disciplinary society, in order to exemplify the consequent margination arising out of this process. As a case study, through the hermeneutic method of investigation, appears a critical analysis of the narrative of the "Yasuke" parade of Laboratório Fantasma brand held in 42nd Edition of the São Paulo Fashion Week. Thus, the study reveals that fashion is a powerful cultural phenomenon to show the reality of multiple corporeal experiences of gender, sex, ethnicity and social class, having a transforming power of bodies to transgress the hegemonic discourse in the public space, because fashion is a creative radical practice, where the heteronormativity and binary identifications are infringed in several ways. Thus, fashion, not only breaks with normalizing discourses on gender and sex, but also provides ample evidence on how these speeches are fictions, therefore, the same reveals an inherently Queer uprising and subversion.

Country
Portugal
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Keywords

Moda e Queer, Domínio/Área Científica::Engenharia e Tecnologia::Design de Moda, Heteronormatividade, Teoria Queer, Marginalização da Moda

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selected citations
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This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
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