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A comunicação na moda e o luxo: articulações e contributos para o branding de moda

Authors: Conde, Inês Torres;

A comunicação na moda e o luxo: articulações e contributos para o branding de moda

Abstract

Considera-se que a moda e o luxo sempre fizeram parte da sociedade (Kapferer & Bastien, 2010). A moda de luxo foi sempre um fator importante na história e na sociedade. A indústria de moda de luxo sofreu mudanças significativas nas últimas duas décadas, apesar de algumas marcas que consumimos nos dias de hoje terem sido criadas à 100 ou 200 anos, devido a progressos económicos, sociais e tecnológicos. Atualmente o luxo ganhou visibilidade e deixou de ser restrito apenas às classes altas, existem cada vez mais marcas de luxo e consequentemente mais concorrência no mercado. O consumidor também evoluiu psicologicamente e os avanços tecnológicos concederam um maior e mais facilitado acesso aos bens e serviços de luxo. A fim de compreender a indústria de moda de luxo portuguesa atualmente, definir as melhores estratégias e perceber qual o seu possível futuro, é necessário primeiro entender os fatores que levaram ao luxo atual. A dissertação está dividida em duas partes, a primeira incide na revisão bibliográfica que recai sobre a origem do luxo, a definição de luxo, o luxo atual, a definição de moda, a moda e a sociedade, a moda e o luxo, o consumo na moda, as marcas, a gestão de marca e a comunicação das marcas. A segunda parte da dissertação baseia-se nas entrevista semiestruturadas e na síntese de analises de linguagens visuais, sustentadas no Modelo Linear do autor Oliveira (2015), de três marcas de moda portuguesas: Storytailors, Companhia das Cestas e Valentim Quaresma, a fim de entender o luxo, no contexto das marcas de moda de luxo portuguesas e perceber se a comunicação influencia ou não o crescimento das mesmas. A presente dissertação procura compreender como podemos entender o luxo, no contexto das marcas de moda portuguesas e entender se os meios de comunicação da indústria de moda de luxo são uma vantagem ou desvantagens para o mercado português. O estudo realizado confirma que a comunicação das marcas de moda Portuguesas de luxo é um fator que influencia o sucesso e expansão das mesmas. Atualmente é uma ferramenta que ajuda a trespassar os valores e a identidade das marcas aos consumidores e criar proximidade com os mesmos.

Fashion and luxury are always considered to have been part of society (Kapferer & Bastien, 2010). Luxury has always been an important factor in History and Society. The luxury fashion industry has undergone significant changes over the past two decades, although some of the brands we consume today were created 100 or 200 years ago, due to economic, social and technological progress. Nowadays luxury has gained visibility and is no longer restricted to the upper classes, there are more luxury brands and consequently more competition in the market, the consumer has also evolved psychologically and technological advances have given greater and easier access to goods and luxury services. In order to understand the Portuguese luxury fashion industry nowadays, define the best strategies and understand what the possible future is, first we must understand what were the factors that led to the current luxury. This dissertation is divided into two parts, the first focuses on the literature revision on the origin of luxury, a definition of luxury, the current luxury, a definition of fashion, fashion and society, fashion and luxury, the consumption in fashion, brands, brand management and brand communication. The second part of this dissertation is based on the semi-structured interview and the syntheses of visual language analysis, supported by the Linear Model of the author Oliveira (2015), of three Portuguese fashion brands: Storytailors, Companhia das Cestas and Valentim Quaresma, an end to understand luxury, in the context of luxury fashion brands and to understand whether or not communication influences their growth. This dissertation seeks to understand how we can understand luxury in the context of Portuguese fashion brands and to understand if the luxury fashion industry media is an advantage or disadvantages for the Portuguese market. This study confirms that the communication of luxury Portuguese fashion brands is a factor that influences their success and expansion. Today it is a tool that helps to pierce the values and identity of brands to consumers and create proximity with them.

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Portugal
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Keywords

Domínio/Área Científica:: Humanidades::Artes::Design de Moda, Communication, Luxury, Luxury Consumer, Branding, Portuguese Fashion Brands

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selected citations
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This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
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