This paper presents an innovative methodology to assimilate peak period into wave models at a local scale. The proposed methodology estimates the peak period by processing time stack images from a video monitoring system for assimilation into a wave energy balance spectral model. Assimilation of the wave peak period is performed by correcting the boundary conditions and replacing the directional spectra prescribed by SWAN when using a nesting scheme. This methodology represents a new procedure for assimilating wave peak periods in coastal areas with video system infrastructures. The wave modelling is performed using a three-mesh nesting scheme where the finer domain coincides with the local scale and the proposed assimilation methodology is applied. The results show that the model improves the estimation of the peak period across the whole domain. The shape of the spectrum obtained changes significantly in the inner domain, mainly for low frequencies.

AO gives thanks to grant RTI2018-093941-B-C31 funded by MCIN/AEI/10.13039/501100011033 and “ERDF A way of making Europe”. The first author wants to thanks to Minciencias and its Scholarship program for doctoral excellence of the Bicentennial – first assignment and the Project ‘Programa estratégico para el Desarrollo de Tecnología Robótica Orientada a la Exploración Petrolera de los Fondos Marinos Colombianos’. Code:1210-531-30550.

Peer reviewed