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Naturaleza y Sociedad: Desafíos Medioambientales
Article . 2024 . Peer-reviewed
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Cocinas, milpa y recolección: resistencias culinarias locales en la costa totonaca de Veracruz, México

Authors: Erika María Méndez Martínez;

Cocinas, milpa y recolección: resistencias culinarias locales en la costa totonaca de Veracruz, México

Abstract

Local cuisines can be considered spaces of resistance for knowledges and culinary practices in the presence of the implementation of various tourism and heritage projects. Some of these resistances are the transmission of knowledges, rituals around cooking, and the sale of harvested and collected products. In consideration of the above, this article aims to show through ethnographic analysis the resistance carried out by Totonaca women with the sale of products harvested and collected in milpas and the mountain, which are acquired and used in daily and ritual foods, or as basic ingredients in the preparations of restaurants on the Totonaca coast of Veracruz. The fieldwork was conducted in different periods (between 2019 and 2022), privileging ethnographic recording, participant observation, and semi-structured interviews. Market tours were also carried out, as well as reviews of printed recipe books of Totonaca cuisine. The conclusion evidenced that resistances—such as the sale of harvested and collected edible plants—have made possible the construction of the so-called Totonaca cuisine, a cuisine that, although it has incorporated new and varied ingredients throughout its history, continues to have an intimate relationship with the milpa system and harvesting.

Keywords

Environmental sciences, Veracruz, Environmental law, resistencias locales, totonacos, milpa, GE1-350, K3581-3598, recolección, cocina

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selected citations
These citations are derived from selected sources.
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
0
Average
Average
Average
gold