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Les costumes des élégants d’Antinoé conservés au musée des Tissus de Lyon : approche historique, analyses techniques et analyses de colorants

Costumes worn by elegant society in Antinopolis now in the Musée des Tissus : historical approach, analyses of techniques and dyes
Authors: Durand, Maximilien; Guelton, Marie-Hélène; Troalen, Lore; Pearson, Emily; Hulme, Alison N.;

Les costumes des élégants d’Antinoé conservés au musée des Tissus de Lyon : approche historique, analyses techniques et analyses de colorants

Abstract

L’exposition Antinoé, à la vie, à la mode. Visions d’élégance dans les solitudes, organisée par le musée des Tissus en 2013, en partenariat avec le musée du Louvre, a permis de révéler la presque totalité du produit des fouilles de la campagne de 1898 sur le site d’Antinoé. Toutes les étoffes issues de cette campagne avaient été envoyées à Lyon, et oubliées dans les réserves du musée des Tissus. Pour la première fois, des costumes complets et des fragments de vêtements remarquables, provenant des quartiers de la nécropole où reposaient les fonctionnaires impériaux et la haute bourgeoisie de la cité antique, ont été présentés au public. Les costumes les plus exceptionnels, qui ont fait l’objet d’une analyse technique approfondie, ont également pu servir à caractériser les colorants employés à l’époque byzantine pour la production de luxe. Les analyses de colorants, effectuées par le Musée national d’Écosse et l’université d’Édimbourg, ont caractérisé notamment des rouges précieux (cochenille d’Arménie, kermès), des jaunes de flavonoïdes rares (bois de fustet) et des procédés tinctoriaux subtils (garance et indigo ou gaude, par exemple).

Keywords

byzantin, Antinopolis, Guimet (Émile), torsion Z, technical analysis, Antinoé, dyes, analyse technique, soie tussah, seed cotton, Byzantine, Musée des Tissus, wild silk, toile à effet crêpe, Gayet (Albert), colorants, Z-twist, crepe cotton, brushed cotton, coton de jeune pousse, musée des Tissus, toile grattée

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selected citations
These citations are derived from selected sources.
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
1
Average
Average
Average
hybrid