Study on Velocity Fields of Partial Clapotis

descriptionPublicationkeyboard_double_arrow_right Article , Other literature type 01 Jan 1991Publisher:Japan Society of Civil EngineersJournal:PROCEEDINGS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING IN THE OCEAN, volume 7, pages 13-18 (issn: 0912-7348, eissn: 1884-8265,

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Authors: Koichiro Iwata; Takashi Tomita;

doi: 10.2208/prooe.7.13

Study on Velocity Fields of Partial Clapotis

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Abstract

This paper aims to discuss the characteristics of velocity field of the partial clapotis, based on the laboratry experiments and a newly developed third order theory. As the relative water depth decreases and the wave steepness increases, the crest of the time history of horizontal velocities is steepned and its trough is flattened, while the wave form bends forward in vertical velocities. In addition, as the left-lettlection coeffient is more than 0.8, the second harmonic component wave appears to be prominent in water surface profiles and vertical velocities at the node.

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