
Swash oscillation の周期は入射波のそれに比べて長くなることが知られている. こうした swash oscillation の長周期化を水理実験および有限振幅長波理論に基づく数値モデルにより検討し, 長周期波のほかに, swash zone での寄せ波と引き波の時系列に依存する追い付き・合体・吸収といった相互干渉によっても長周期の swash oscillation が形成されることを示した.
| selected citations These citations are derived from selected sources. This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically). | 1 | |
| popularity This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network. | Average | |
| influence This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically). | Average | |
| impulse This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network. | Average |
