![Figure][1] Sunset on the island of Kosrae. PHOTO: GEOFFREY RHODES/FLICKR I am finishing the day's field notes by the light of a kerosene lamp on the Micronesian island of Kosrae, home of the archaeological site of Safonfok, when two Micronesians on my field crew approach my tent and ask me to escort them to the latrine. These local men, who are fishermen in their village when not working on my project, know that this remote terrain was abandoned long ago by their ancestors. They have a deep respect for the ancient history of archaeological sites and the ghosts and spirits that inhabit them. It is common to ask permission of the local spirits for safe entry into an archaeological site or passage through a remote area. The men do this quietly, sometimes under their breath, sometimes with a ritual. (One man removed his shoes when we entered the jungle.) The night, it is believed, belongs to the spirits and ghosts—you don't walk around without a purpose, you don't whistle (the language of ghosts is heard as a whistle), you don't call out someone's name (a ghost may take the name and use it to trick you by luring you into a treacherous place), and you don't walk in the center of a path (this is where ghosts walk). Because I work in ancient places filled with ghosts, I have developed a reputation on this island as someone who is not afraid of anything. The men who have come to my tent trust me to provide safe passage between camp and the latrine. As we walk through the darkness, we are serenaded by night birds, croaking frogs, and buzzing insects. We quietly talk about the coral fish hooks for which Safonfok is known, and they share the island's traditional lore as told to them by their grandfathers. I spend my days uncovering ancient artifacts, but sometimes it is at night when history seems to come alive. LIFE IN SCIENCE is an occasional feature highlighting some of the humorous or unusual day-to-day realities that face our readers. Can you top this? Submit your story to [www.submit2science.org][2] [1]: pending:yes [2]: http://www.submit2science.org