The Science of Surfing Waves and Surfing Breaks - A Review

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Scarfe, B. E.; Elwany, M. H.S.; Mead, S. T.; Black, K. P.;
  • Publisher: eScholarship, University of California
  • Subject: surfing break components | surfing reef components | peel angle | breaking intensity | wave sections | section length | surfing maneuvers | surfer’s skill level

Surfing breaks have great social and economic value for coastal communities. In order to preserve and enhance these resources, a common language is needed that will bridge the gap between the colloquial slang of surfers and the technical language of scientists and polic... View more
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