publication . Doctoral thesis . 1996

Swell propagation across a wide continental shelf

Hendrickson, Eric J.;
Open Access English
  • Published: 01 Mar 1996
  • Publisher: Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
Abstract
The effects of wave refraction and damping on swell propagation across a wide continental shelf were examined with data from a transect of bottom pressure recorders extending from the beach to the shelf break near Duck, North Carolina. The observations generally show weak variations in swell energy across the shelf during benign conditions, in qualitative agreement with predictions of a spectral refraction model. Although the predicted ray trajectories are quite sensitive to the irregular shelf bathymetry, the predicted energy variations are surprisingly weak, consistent with the observations. These results indicate that small amplitude swell is not significantl...
Subjects
arXiv: Physics::Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics
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