Crafting the Composite Garment: The role of hand weaving in digital creation

Article English OPEN
Piper, A ; Townsend, K (2015)

There is a growing body of practice-led textile research, focused on how digital technologies can inform new design and production strategies that challenge and extend the field. To date, this research has emphasized a traditional linear transition between hand and digital production; with hand production preceding digital as a means of acquiring the material and process knowledge required to negotiate technologies and conceptualize designs. This paper focuses on current Doctoral research into the design and prototyping of 3D woven or 'composite' garments and how the re-learning, or reinterpreting, of hand weaving techniques in a digital Jacquard format relies heavily on experiential knowledge of craft weaving skills. Drawing parallels between hand weaving and computer programming, that extend beyond their shared binary (pixel-based) language, the paper discusses how the machine-mediated experience of hand weaving can prime the weaver to ‘think digitally’ and make the transition to digital production. In a process where the weaver acts simultaneously as designer, constructor and programmer, the research explores the inspiring, but often indefinable space between craft and digital technology by challenging the notion that 'the relationship between hand, eye and material’ naturally precedes the use of computing (Harris 2012: 93). This is achieved through the development of an iterative working methodology that encompasses a cycle of transitional development, where hand weaving and digital processes take place in tandem, and techniques and skills are reinterpreted to exploit the advantages and constraints of each construction method. It is argued that the approach challenges the codes and conventions of computer programming, weaving and fashion design to offer a more sustainable clothing solution.
  • References (17)
    17 references, page 1 of 2

    Nimkulrat, N. 2010. Material Inspiration: From practice-led research to craft art education, Craft Research, Volume 1. Intellect, 63-84.

    Osborne, E, F. 2010. Weaving Process for Production of Full Fashioned Woven Stretch Garment with Load Carriage Capability, Patent.

    Pallasmaa, J. 2009. The Thinking Hand: Existential and Embodied Wisdom in Architecture. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons.

    Philpott, R. 2012. Crafting innovation: The intersection of craft and technology in the production of contemporary textiles. Craft Research., 3(1), 53-74.

    Polanyi, M. 1966. The Tacit Dimension. London: University of Chicago Press Ltd.

    Rathnayake, A., Piper, A., and Townsend, K. 2012. Woven Garment with Integrated LED Yarn Technology. Future Textiles Exhibition.

    Richards, A. 2012. Weaving textiles that shape themselves.

    Rissanen, T. 2013. Zero-Waste Fashion Design: a study at the intersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting, PhD Thesis, Sydney: University of Technology.

    Rudge, G. 2001. A Piece of Cloth. Crafts. Nov/Dec, 22-25. Schon, D, A.

    1991. The Reflective Practitioner: How professionals think in action.

  • Metrics
    views in OpenAIRE
    views in local repository
    downloads in local repository

    The information is available from the following content providers:

    From Number Of Views Number Of Downloads
    Institutional Repository - IRUS-UK 0 148
Share - Bookmark