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This article investigates fashion theoretical perspectives on European and US litigation over Louboutin’s red sole mark. It argues that fashion has logics that make it a special case with respect to intellectual property law.In recent disputes over Louboutin’s red sole mark including cases heard by the Court of Justice of the European Union and the US Second Circuit Court of Appeals a number of assumptions as to how fashions emerge and are disseminated are made. We test these assumptions against current fashion theory. In a fashion theoretical perspective the red sole is a polysemic gesture involving both branding and aesthetic communication through specific design features, which endows the shoe with aesthetic, social and economic value on the high fashion market. Accordingly, Louboutin’s red sole may be said to serve an aesthetic purpose and to work as an indicator of source at the same time.In our view, fashion is a special case in relation to intellectual property law for two reasons in particular: (i) the temporal logic of fashion is different from that of most other products because fashion is change and (ii) fashion has logics where design features are utterly self-referential: for example, one purpose of the red sole is to announce that ‘this is fashion’. Strong protection of fashion stifles both of these logics and is, therefore, not good for the fashion market as a whole.

This article explores why Herbert of Bosham (d. ca. 1194) claimed that writing history and expressing emotion were inherently incompatible activities. Focusing on the Historia that Bosham wrote (ca. 1184–ca. 1189) about the life and death of his close friend, Thomas Becket, I begin by situating Bosham’s claim within the wider framework of history-writing’s disavowal of the emotions. I then go on to unpack Bosham’s definition of historia as a literary genre and to explain his understanding of emotional expression, using the frameworks of medieval grammar, rhetoric, and biblical exegesis to do so. While Bosham understood history-writing as a genre policed by strict “laws,” I argue, he understood the emotions as inherently lawless—and thus unable to be contained by the normal rules of discourse. This means that when Bosham periodically abandoned the chronological progression that normative historical writing demanded, he was not just being the poor historian that modern scholarship has often made him out to be. Rather, he was being daringly experimental, quite deliberately using rhetoric’s most emotional techniques (especially amplificatio, apostrophe, and enargaeia) in order to give his Historia a lyrical complexion. I argue here that the Historia’s alternation between lyrical stasis and historiographical progression was both personal and political. On the one hand, it mirrored Bosham’s own alternation between mourning and consolation. On the other, by refusing the demands of narrative progress, the Historia refuses to close the Becket conflict down and to bring it safely to a conclusion.

This special issue grows out of a set of debates on the challenges to and limitations of current consumer culture theory (CCT) research in academic journals including the present one (e.g. Askegaard and Linnet, 2011) as well as two sessions devoted to epistemological perspectives— past, present and future—at the CCT Conference held at Oxford in August 2012. From the papers presented at this conference, we have selected three and added two more for this issue of Marketing Theory. As it turned out, the debates—and consequently, the articles in this issue—inadvertently turned toward the role of various crucial events and publications, various manifestary moments (Bode and Ostergaard, this volume) and their consequential historical legacy. We wish to follow up on that unexpected turn in this editorial introduction. We find it an ironic experience to introduce a series of articles that attempt to give an accounting of CCT’s past in order to argue for desired futures. The sense of irony inheres in the fact that we ourselves were actors in the history of events being described and evaluated. However, we also find that some of the evidentiary gaps, rhetorical agendas and theoretical positions create the contradictory echo typical of irony. Much of this noise is attributable to the exclusive use of written documents as an evidentiary base, a problem well recognized in history but not well understood in marketing, since historical method has so little presence in this discipline. So, we decided to do a quick corrective exercise and pose a set of 10 questions to a short list of living sources—people who were instrumental in the birth of CCT, in Europe and America. We got replies from Morris Holbrook, Russ Belk, John Sherry, Craig Thompson, Eric Arnould, Elizabeth Hirschman, Sidney Levy, Dennis Rook, David Mick, Barbara Phillips, Ed McQuarrie, Jeff Murray, Fuat Firat and Markus Giesler in the North American scene as well as Stefania Borghini, Alan Bradshaw, Bernard Cova, Guliz Ger, Jacob Ostberg, Nil Ozcaglar-Toulouse, Stefano Pace, Diego Rinallo, Lorna Stevens, Pauline Maclaran

Four elm declines were found in a pollen diagram from a small lake in northwest Denmark. Matching consecutive radiocarbon dates with the dendro-chronological calibration curve indicated a reservoir effect of 120 years, and dates for the four elm declines were obtained (4530, 4130, 3870, 3410 cal B.C.). The occurrence of apophytes (native plants encouraged by human activities) and increased vegetation diversity during the four elm declines indicates human disturbance. The first and second elm declines coincide with traces of early agriculture in northern Germany. The third and fourth elm declines are contemporary with the transitions to the Early Neolithic and the Middle Neolithic Funnel Beaker Culture in Denmark. The possible influence of outbreaks of elm disease is discussed.

In this paper, we examine the long-run social mobility experience in England. We present evidence for surprisingly constant levels of social mobility over the period 1550–1749, despite huge structural changes. Examining regional differences, we show that the North of England exhibited higher rates of social mobility than the South. We link this to the hypothesis that historically high levels of social mobility can lead to a culture of non-acceptance of redistribution and welfare provision. Taking advantage of the fact that welfare provision was determined at the local level at the time, we are able to compare social mobility rates and welfare spending within a single country. Consistent with the hypothesis, we find evidence for historically higher levels of social mobility as well as lower welfare spending and less acceptance of redistribution in the North.

Although the design and construction of wooden merchant vessels in the nineteenth century is generally considered to be well understood, the excavation and subsequent analysis of the wreck of the wooden Finnish topsail schooner Pettu (1865) revealed a number of unexpected features, which prompted the authors to take a closer look at the ship. In the following study, it will be attempted to gain an insight into the society that produced and used the merchant vessel through a detailed analysis of its construction and an investigation into the concept behind its design. The wreck of the Pettu, which, considering its loss in 1893, is barely covered by the 100 year rule in Danish heritage legislation, is a good example for the archaeological potential of even relatively ‘modern’ wreck sites, adding to their significance. © 2016, Springer Science+Business Media New York.

Several contemporary works of British theatre represent a new social group under formation, the precariat. A special feature of this theatre is its attention to how it feels to live in precarity and experience various forms of social and existential insecurity. Departing from an outline of the main theories of precarity within the social sciences and critical theory, the essay gives an overview of representations of the precariat in works of contemporary British drama, which may be classified as formative for the development of a new ”theatre of the precariat”. It then turns to a more detailed analysis of Alexander Zeldin’s play Love (2016), to illustrate how the interest in precarity manifests itself on both thematic and formal levels in the theatre of the precariat. The essay concludes with reflections on the potential political and ethical effects of contemporary theatre by discussing Zeldin’s method of collaboratively devising with the company as a way to oppose the precarization of artistic work and offer a model for social transformation.

Abstract Traditional measures of real wages cover only the standard of living of a small fraction of the Danish population in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries and due to constant wages over long periods the measures reflect primarily price changes. Mortality statistics can also be used to measure changes in the standard of living—both in the short and the long run until about 1840. Human stature of the Danish population shows relatively constant average heights from 1789 to the 1850s.